Carpet grass Lawn Maintenance

Carpet grass Lawn Maintenance

Introduction

These suggested management practices will help you care for your lawn throughout the year. Location, terrain, soil type and condition, age of the lawn, previous lawn care, and other factors affect turf performance, so adjust these management practices and dates to suit your particular lawn.

March through May

Mowing

Mow the lawn to 2 inches when it turns green in the spring. Do not let it grow taller than 2¹⁄₂ inches. Use a rotary mower to remove any seed heads. NEVER burn carpet grass to remove excessive debris.

Fertilization

DO NOT apply nitrogen now. Has the soil been tested every two to three years to determine nutrient and lime requirements?

Watering

Actively growing carpet grass requires about 1 inch of water each week, either from rainfall or supplemental irrigation. Sandy soils often require more frequent watering (¹⁄₂ inch of water every third day) if rainfall is insufficient. Proper irrigation helps prevent or reduce problems later in the summer.

Insect Control

White grubs may be active at this time, but spring curative applications are not effective. Make note of areas with white grub activity and plan to apply a preventive application in the following spring or early summer. Specific timing will vary depending on white grub species, so plan to make an application when the adult flight is at its peak.

Weed Control

Unless your Extension agent suggests otherwise, do not broadcast herbicide. Carpet grass is sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for use on carpet grass. Manage weeds by hand pulling and mowing.

Renovation

Replant bare areas no earlier than April 15 (or when average daytime temperatures are continually above 60°F). Use 2 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet or 1¹⁄₂ bushels of sprigs per 1,000 square feet. (One square yard of turf pulled apart is equivalent to one bushel of sprigs.) It’s easier to spread seed if you mix it with fine sand. Rake seeds into the soil or cover the seeds lightly with light soil. Keep the seedbed continually moist, but not soggy, with several lights watering daily for several weeks. Seeds should germinate in 7 to 10 days. Continue to water regularly for several weeks to keep seedlings from dying.

Thatch Removal

Thatch (layer of undecomposed grass) is usually not a problem unless you over-fertilize or overwater. If thatch is thicker than ¹⁄₂ inch, power rake (vertical mow) lightly several weeks after spring green-up. Space blades 2 to 3 inches apart and ¹⁄₄ inch deep in one direction. Do not use a vertical mower with a 1-inch blade spacing or you will severely damage your lawn.

June through August

Mowing

Mow grass to 2 inches with a rotary mower every 10 to 14 days or before the grass grows taller than 2½ inches.

Fertilization

Fertilize with ¹⁄₂ pound of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet in mid-June. The second application in mid-August may enhance your lawn if you live along the coast.

You need to apply ¹⁄₂ pound of N per 1,000 square feet, so how much fertilizer do you need to buy? Divide 50 by the FIRST number on the fertilizer bag. (The first number always represents N content.) For example, if you’ve got a 5-5-15 fertilizer, divide 50 by 5 and you get 10. That means you need to buy 10 pounds of fertilizer for every 1,000 square feet of lawn.

Watering
Follow guidelines for March through May.

Weed Control
Follow guidelines for March through May.

Insect Control
Follow guidelines for March through May.

Disease Control

Watch for large patch disease, which shows up as circular patches of brown grass up to several feet in diameter. This disease rarely causes lasting damage to carpet grass. Fungicides are available for large patch control but must be applied on a preventative basis.

September through November

Mowing

Mow grass before it grows taller than 2½ inches until the lawn turns brown (onset of dormancy).

Fertilization
Follow guidelines for March through May.

Insect Control

Curative applications applied in early fall may control some white grubs, but efficacy will vary depending on the size of the grub. Later in stars (larger grubs) are harder to treat than early instars. Identify and make note of problem areas for preventive applications in late spring to early summer.

Watering

Continue to water as needed to avoid wilting until your lawn becomes dormant. Although a dormant lawn generally requires no supplemental water, make sure the soil doesn’t get powder-dry.

Disease Control
Follow guidelines for June through August.

December through February

Mowing

Mow to remove leaves and other debris. NEVER burn off carpet grass to remove excessive debris.

Watering

Irrigation is rarely needed. Water occasionally during extended dry spells to prevent desiccation of crown tissue.

Weed Control
Follow guidelines for March through May.

More about Carpet grass

Carpet grass is a low-growing, medium-green, coarsely textured turf grass. It is a low-maintenance, general-purpose turf.

Carpet grass looks like St. Augustine grass except that it produces a crabgrass-like seed head that some people don’t like. Carpet grass blends well with centipede grass. Lawns that contain both types of grass should be maintained using recommendations for centipede grass. 

Carpet grass requires only 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet per year. Carpet grass is suitable for full sun to moderate shade, but it grows best in full sun and when daytime temperatures are between 60 and 90°F. It performs well in wet, shady, acid soils where other grasses may not grow. It does not tolerate cold, drought, salt, or wear. It may be necessary to water every third or fourth day in dry, well-drained soils.

Carpet grass is most susceptible to large patch disease. Weed problems are rare because carpet grass grows vigorously and covers well. Carpet grass is sensitive to many herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for carpet grass. 

For more information please click here: Gardensy Nepal

17 Winter Flowers That Will Thrive During the Coldest Months of the Year

Winter Flowers That Will Thrive During the Coldest Months of the Year

As soon as spring rolls around, gardeners everywhere head outside with new bulbs and tools in hand. However, gardening doesn’t have to be a warm weather-specific hobby because there are plenty of winter flowers that thrive in the cold. That’s right, even when the temperatures fall below freezing and a thick blanket of snow covers the ground, some flowers can grow tall. Many perennials, annuals, and shrubs actually bloom during the coldest months of the year.

So if you’re looking to break out your gardening gear or to try out your green thumb for the first time, there’s no need to wait until May. We’ve done some digging and rounded up 17 floral species that prefer winter over spring. Everything from pansies to black tulips would also make for a beautiful pop of color against the bright white snow. 

We also offer some helpful tips to keep them alive and well. Note: Perennials and shrubs need to be planted before the ground freezes to establish their roots. In mild climates, you can plant hardy annuals like pansies for much of the winter. So without further adieu, we bring you our favorite winter flowers.

Pansies

Pansies and violas bloom for most of the winter in mild climates, and some types will rebound in the spring in cold climates. They're technically annuals, but many varieties drop seeds so they'll come back again next spring.

Snowdrops

Also called galanthus, snowdrops must be planted in the fall for a very early spring show. These darling droopy-headed flowers look best at the front of borders or in rock gardens and often start blooming when snow is still on the ground (thus, the name!).

Daffodils

These sunny little flowers are usually the first ones to crop up in the early spring, but sometimes they can grace your yard as early as February. For the best results, plant your bulbs at least three weeks before the expected first frost. This will give the daffodils enough time to grow a strong root base.

Hellebores

These gorgeous perennials, also known as Lenten roses because they bloom around the time of Lent, appear in mid to late winter, depending on where you live. Despite their delicate appearance, they're tough as nails.

Black Tulips

Black tulips, also known as Queen of the Night tulips, are the perfect moody winter flower. While tulips are usually associated with spring, they are actually pretty resilient and can withstand cold temperatures, so if you're in a milder climate or feel up to the challenge, it's worth planting these for a late winter/ early spring bloom (they need 8 to 15 weeks in the ground, so plant them during the fall).

Winter Berries

This shrub is a deciduous holly, meaning it drops its leaves in winter. But its gorgeous berry-laden branches pop against a carpet of snow. Make sure you also purchase the "male" pollinator plant so it will produce berries.

Winter Jasmine

This medium-sized shrub has long, arching branches and bright yellow flowers. It's not fragrant, but it is striking in the otherwise dull landscape of late winter.

Pieris

This showy plant blooms when least expected in mid to late winter! Hundreds of bell-like flowers dangle from fine stems on this striking evergreen shrub.

Winter Aconite

These lesser-known bulbs have buttercup-yellow blooms that boldly pop up through the snow! Plant them in masses for the best effect.

Cyclamens

This flower is often sold as a houseplant, but in mild climates, cyclamens in shades of pink, white, lavender, and fuchsia are used as a cheerful ground cover. They prefer winter sun and summer shade, so plant them beneath deciduous trees.

Witch Hazel

This shrub boasts wispy-looking flowers on bare branches in February or March, long before much else is going on in your garden. Their whimsical appearance makes them a fun addition to the landscape. Be sure to plant the winter-flowering variety because there are many different types

English Primroses

These dainty flowers are some of the earliest perennials to bloom in late winter to early spring, depending on where you live. With hundreds of types, be sure to choose one that can survive winters in your USDA Hardiness zone.

Camellias

These gorgeous evergreen shrubs have lush white, pink, or red flowers that bloom from fall through winter. With hundreds of varieties, read the plant description or label to make sure you choose one that will bloom in winter.

Glory of the snow

As the name indicates, these little beauties may peep through the snow in the coldest climates. They come in starry blues, pinks, and whites. Plant in rock gardens or at the front of the border.

6 things to get done in your garden this winter

Don’t let the cooler weather deter you from getting stuck into the garden. Here’s what to get done during winter.

It’s only a few weeks in to winter and we’re already getting some glorious rain.

While it might be cold outside, work in the garden will give you a warm glow in both body and mind.

1. Help the rain soak in

If your soil has been dry for an extended period, it can become water-repellent (hydrophobic), even after heavy rains.

Look for water pooling on the surface, which can be fixed with a good soil wetting agent and/or seaweed-based additives.

Remove heavy layers of autumn leaves that can stop the rain getting to the soil. Use these excess leaves to make nutrient-rich compost.

2. Get stuck in to weed control

With rain comes weeds. Make sure you remove weeds before they mature and set seed.

Weeding by hand can give an effective result. Be careful to remove roots and all, and use garden hoes or tillers for larger areas.

3. Get on top of those jobs

This is the perfect time to get on top of ‘those jobs’. The ones that have been niggling in the back of your mind.

Do you need to relocate underperforming plants to a more suitable spot, or replace them with something else? Do you need to attend to a garden path or fix some irrigation?

Life is busy but once these chores are ticked off your list, you will have time to focus on the more satisfying activities.

4. Veggie patch-up

Winter’s the time to prune your existing fruit trees or buy new ones to put in the ground. It’s also a great time for planting brassicas (such as brussels sprouts and cauliflower), lettuce and Chinese vegetables.

Take the time to tidy up your veggie garden, enrich the soil with compost and start thinking about what you’re going to plant next season.

Check with your local nursery to see if they have any new veggies you’d like to try growing.

5. Take time to prune

Winter is a good time to prune for structure on young deciduous trees. Because these trees are without leaves, the form of the tree can be seen easily, so crossing wood, double leaders and a plethora of other problems can be picked up early.

Hydrangea pruning can also be done now the flower buds have set. The old wood can be pruned out and the shrubs pruned back to those healthy fat flower buds for a good display next year.

Rose pruning is a winter must – any time from July onwards is fine. When you’ve finished, apply a seaweed-based product to condition the soil, which will help the plant with drought tolerance, resistance to frost and attack from pests and disease.

6. Start something new

Put the kettle on and get cosy indoors as you make plans for your garden. Think about whether you would like a new design or theme for your garden.

Is it time to add more shade or to plant native plants to encourage native wildlife into your outdoor space? Birds, bees, butterflies, and other little creatures will do wonders for your garden by helping to pollinate veggies and gobble up pest insects. Native bee hotel, anyone?

So when the rain pours and the wind howls, get online to do some research, plan your project and you’ll be ready for action when there’s a break in the clouds.

 

Basic Gardening Tools with images

 

While many clever gardening tools are available, all you really need are the tools below. They will enable you to do most of your gardening chores.

• Standard shovel and spade A shovel is used for scooping loose materials, such as sand, while a spade is made for digging; but many stores use the terms interchangeably. shovels and spades with D-shaped handles make it easier to lift what you have dug or scooped. Look for forged metal with a sharp digging edge. A slick metal surface allows material to slide off easily.                                                        

  

  Shovel

• A lawn rake is a lightweight tool ideal for removing fall leaves, twigs, and other debris. A ground rake is used for smoothing new and existing beds. Buy tools that are securely attached to the handles. None of the parts should wiggle. Metal rakes will last longer and perform better than plastic or wood.                                                   

  

  Lawn Rake

• A broad hoe moves soil, digs planting trenches, and weeds. A shuffle or action hoe skims just under the surface, slicing weed stems. A warren hoe works in tight areas. The metal part should be attached to the handle with solid-socket construction, so it will not come loose. Smooth wooden handles will resist splintering.                                    

  

  Broad hoe

• A trowel is a mini-spade, for planting annuals and perennials. A spading fork is used for turning over soil and compost. A square spade is used for turning over existing beds, and planting large plants. A drain spade is an elongated shovel ideal for digging postholes. Quality tools are forged rather than made of cast or welded metal. If the metal part wiggles even slightly, don’t buy it.       

  

  Trowel

• A wheelbarrow or two-wheeled yard cart is for hauling leaves or soil, collecting weeds and debris, and many other uses. A tool caddy totes seeds and tools; made of canvas, it fits over a round 5-gallon bucket. The sturdiest wheelbarrows are made of one piece of heavy steel with extra braces on the legs. They also have heavy wooden handles that are attached with countersunk bolts. For heavy loads, a yard cart is easier to maneuver than a wheelbarrow.                                         

  

  Wheelbarrow

• A watering can is suited for watering jobs too small for a hose. A garden hose carries water longer distances. Attach two or more together to reach farther. Adjustable nozzles do everything from gently sprinkling new plants to delivering a hard stream for garden cleanup. Watering cans should have at least a 2-gallon capacity but should be easy to carry when full. With other watering tools, brass parts and fittings are more durable than plastic.

Watering Can 

MAINTAIN A HEALTHY LAWN

 

How to Get and Maintain a Healthy Lawn

A beautiful lawn is easier to have and maintain than the professional lawn-care people want you to think. Sadly, their way of maintaining lawns is dictated by the fertilizer makers and not by grass know-how or science.

1. 1
   Stop fertilizing your lawn repeatedly. Lots of fertilizer encourages rapid grass growth, making the grass plants more vulnerable to disease and insects. Once in the fall is best. Details below.
2. 2
   Start mowing at the highest setting on your mower--probably 3 1/2 to 4 inches. Taller grass is healthier grass. It shades out weed seeds, preventing them from sprouting. It keeps the soil cooler, keeping it moist longer and encouraging the proliferation of soil microbes. (You want lots of soil microbes because they convert nutrients from the soil into a form that plants can use.) All this encourages grass to spread into bare spots. And it promotes deeper root penetration, which is the secret to drought resistance.
3. 3
   Never apply pesticides, insecticides or fungicides. Those kill living things (those good microbes plus earthworms that naturally aerate soil) that keep your soil richer. If you observe the other steps in this plan, you won't need the killer chemicals. Healthy grass (with lots of leaf area, slow growth and cooler, deeper roots) is tougher and less likely to succumb to disease or insect damage.
4. 4
   Grass does not need to be watered during long dry spells. Leaves may go brown, but the heart of the plant underground can stay alive and dormant for months. But if you want to keep the lawn green all summer long, water deeply but infrequently. Better to run the sprinkler for an hour once every week or two than for 10 minutes every day. Think of it this way: You always want to encourage roots to grow deep. If the soil is dry below the roots, they won't go down. And the deeper moisture will wick its way upward as the soil dries from the top.
5. 5
   Fertilize once a year in the fall, October in northern latitudes, November in mid latitudes. Do NOT use high-nitrogen fertilizer. Most nationally advertised lawn fertilizers have massive amounts of nitrogen that make a lawn grow very fast...and weak. Your lawn will green up fast but be all the more vulnerable to drought and disease.
6. 6
   Why fertilize in the fall when the grass is slowing its growth and about to stop for the winter? Again, it's because of the roots. When the air is cold, grass blades slow and stop growing, but the soil stays warm enough for root growth much longer. Build those roots in the fall, and they'll be there to support a healthy, green lawn next spring and summer.
7. 7
   When shopping for fertilizer, look for the three numbers that tell the percentage of the three main ingredients: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The three are always given in that order. Thus, if the bag says 10-6-4, it means the stuff inside is 10 percent nitrogen, 6 percent phosphorus and 4 percent potassium. The highest percentage of nitrogen you should ever apply is 10 percent, especially in the fall. The other numbers are less critical since most soils already have some of each. Only nitrogen is rapidly depleted by growing plants.
8. 
   
   8
   The best fertilizers for a low-maintenance lawn are the so-called organic kind.That's because the chemicals in them are slow to break down and seep into the soil. And because they are low in chemical salts that are hard on soil microbes. Because chemical salts are cheap, they are common ingredients in the cheaper non-organic fertilizers. Resist the temptation to buy them. Probably the best well-known brand of organic lawn fertilizer is Ringer's (10-2-6), but it's fairly pricey. Almost as good is Milorganite (6-2-0), typically half the price of Ringer's. Instructions for applying these are on the bag.