Carpet grass Lawn Maintenance

Carpet grass Lawn Maintenance

Introduction

These suggested management practices will help you care for your lawn throughout the year. Location, terrain, soil type and condition, age of the lawn, previous lawn care, and other factors affect turf performance, so adjust these management practices and dates to suit your particular lawn.

March through May

Mowing

Mow the lawn to 2 inches when it turns green in the spring. Do not let it grow taller than 2¹⁄₂ inches. Use a rotary mower to remove any seed heads. NEVER burn carpet grass to remove excessive debris.

Fertilization

DO NOT apply nitrogen now. Has the soil been tested every two to three years to determine nutrient and lime requirements?

Watering

Actively growing carpet grass requires about 1 inch of water each week, either from rainfall or supplemental irrigation. Sandy soils often require more frequent watering (¹⁄₂ inch of water every third day) if rainfall is insufficient. Proper irrigation helps prevent or reduce problems later in the summer.

Insect Control

White grubs may be active at this time, but spring curative applications are not effective. Make note of areas with white grub activity and plan to apply a preventive application in the following spring or early summer. Specific timing will vary depending on white grub species, so plan to make an application when the adult flight is at its peak.

Weed Control

Unless your Extension agent suggests otherwise, do not broadcast herbicide. Carpet grass is sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for use on carpet grass. Manage weeds by hand pulling and mowing.

Renovation

Replant bare areas no earlier than April 15 (or when average daytime temperatures are continually above 60°F). Use 2 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet or 1¹⁄₂ bushels of sprigs per 1,000 square feet. (One square yard of turf pulled apart is equivalent to one bushel of sprigs.) It’s easier to spread seed if you mix it with fine sand. Rake seeds into the soil or cover the seeds lightly with light soil. Keep the seedbed continually moist, but not soggy, with several lights watering daily for several weeks. Seeds should germinate in 7 to 10 days. Continue to water regularly for several weeks to keep seedlings from dying.

Thatch Removal

Thatch (layer of undecomposed grass) is usually not a problem unless you over-fertilize or overwater. If thatch is thicker than ¹⁄₂ inch, power rake (vertical mow) lightly several weeks after spring green-up. Space blades 2 to 3 inches apart and ¹⁄₄ inch deep in one direction. Do not use a vertical mower with a 1-inch blade spacing or you will severely damage your lawn.

June through August

Mowing

Mow grass to 2 inches with a rotary mower every 10 to 14 days or before the grass grows taller than 2½ inches.

Fertilization

Fertilize with ¹⁄₂ pound of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet in mid-June. The second application in mid-August may enhance your lawn if you live along the coast.

You need to apply ¹⁄₂ pound of N per 1,000 square feet, so how much fertilizer do you need to buy? Divide 50 by the FIRST number on the fertilizer bag. (The first number always represents N content.) For example, if you’ve got a 5-5-15 fertilizer, divide 50 by 5 and you get 10. That means you need to buy 10 pounds of fertilizer for every 1,000 square feet of lawn.

Watering
Follow guidelines for March through May.

Weed Control
Follow guidelines for March through May.

Insect Control
Follow guidelines for March through May.

Disease Control

Watch for large patch disease, which shows up as circular patches of brown grass up to several feet in diameter. This disease rarely causes lasting damage to carpet grass. Fungicides are available for large patch control but must be applied on a preventative basis.

September through November

Mowing

Mow grass before it grows taller than 2½ inches until the lawn turns brown (onset of dormancy).

Fertilization
Follow guidelines for March through May.

Insect Control

Curative applications applied in early fall may control some white grubs, but efficacy will vary depending on the size of the grub. Later in stars (larger grubs) are harder to treat than early instars. Identify and make note of problem areas for preventive applications in late spring to early summer.

Watering

Continue to water as needed to avoid wilting until your lawn becomes dormant. Although a dormant lawn generally requires no supplemental water, make sure the soil doesn’t get powder-dry.

Disease Control
Follow guidelines for June through August.

December through February

Mowing

Mow to remove leaves and other debris. NEVER burn off carpet grass to remove excessive debris.

Watering

Irrigation is rarely needed. Water occasionally during extended dry spells to prevent desiccation of crown tissue.

Weed Control
Follow guidelines for March through May.

More about Carpet grass

Carpet grass is a low-growing, medium-green, coarsely textured turf grass. It is a low-maintenance, general-purpose turf.

Carpet grass looks like St. Augustine grass except that it produces a crabgrass-like seed head that some people don’t like. Carpet grass blends well with centipede grass. Lawns that contain both types of grass should be maintained using recommendations for centipede grass. 

Carpet grass requires only 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet per year. Carpet grass is suitable for full sun to moderate shade, but it grows best in full sun and when daytime temperatures are between 60 and 90°F. It performs well in wet, shady, acid soils where other grasses may not grow. It does not tolerate cold, drought, salt, or wear. It may be necessary to water every third or fourth day in dry, well-drained soils.

Carpet grass is most susceptible to large patch disease. Weed problems are rare because carpet grass grows vigorously and covers well. Carpet grass is sensitive to many herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for carpet grass. 

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